Can I use dot punch with Palm control?

[Zernike Au]

Anyone use a dot/bean punch attached to the Palm control to make the "dot-dot" background? I try (on brass and steel) but all fail, the punch "run", no matter how I set the controls of the graver...

Zernike

[Dave London]

Zernike
Humm I think that this style is done one tap at a time with hammer(shsh be quiet) and dot punch

[rbaptiste]

There are several methods for stippling with the PalmControl :
1: Hold the tool like a jewelers screwdriver and press on the handle with your index finger while holding the point loose on the work.
2: Turn the idle up so that the tool is running all the time.
3: Disconnect the air line off the back of the PalmControl handle and attach it direct to the body. Now adjust the regulator so that the tool is running continually.
4: Disconnect the air line off the back of the PalmControl handle and attach it to the body of the tool. Now connect the other end of the line to the foot pedal controller. In other words, we can operate the PalmControl with the foot pedal too.
If there is a lot of stippling to do I prefer method #3 for the palmcontrol and for the foot pedal Classic. If there is just a little stippling to do I'll use method #1.
It's the explain by Steve himself

[Zernike Au]

Thanks Dave and Roland, I think I better care my lovely palm control and don't let her to do such heavy jobs....

It seems this technique is very easy but I still can't manage it!!!
I bought the beading tool (Swiss made) which is for jewerlly (told by the staff) and I think you all use the same tools for the "dot-dot" background.
I hit it with a hammer, with nearly all my efforts, just got a circular ring, I tap it several times with very heavy heavy tapping, still cannot get the "dome" shape dots that I can see from your works!!!




Am I bought the wrong tools? I found Ngraver got a set of dot punch, is their one better, their website is still not work so I cannot order it now!!! Or is the steel too hard? I can engraving on it easily with a HSS graver. I think it is tool steel which I pick it from the floor of a machinist's shop.

Any suggestion? Your help will be appreciated.

Zernike

[rbaptiste]

You must do perhaps a little ring.
I used the number 4 and I put one by one with the hammer for this result but before the background is blackened with more points. I don't like the background brightning



With the Palmcontrol this will not be a next to the other.

[Andrew Biggs]

Hi Zernike

I would say that the metal is to hard for the punch. If it is tool steel then you can whack it as hard as you like and all you'll do is eventually break the punch. They work fine on softer metals like mild steel etc.

You can buy different types. I have some Swiss made ones that are excellent to use but I don't know the brand name. (I buy them here in New Zealand) They are a bit tougher than the ones you have.

The beading tools you have are fine. You don't need to replace them. Although you may want to buy some more of the individual smaller sizes as they do break and go blunt on you.

I would suggest that if somthing isn't working for you then try it on a different surface to see what's happening. Any old metal off the floor is not always the best idea.

Dave and Roland are quite right. One dot at a time with a hammer. Work methodically and get the beads very close to one another. In the very corners where the beads don't fit try a smaller bead and in the tiny corners you can stipple although to the naked eye you really can't see it.

You can create a shiney bead or a matted bead by doing this...

Shiney bead.........remove background with small polished flat graver. Then bead background.

Matted bead......remove background and them work over with a small textured punch. It dosn't have to be much, just matt the surface. Then bead background

Both have their uses. If you have a shiney bead it can add texture and become an intergral part of your design. If you have a matted bead then the background receeds and becomes less noticeable.

There is no right or wrong way of doing this. It's what you want it to look like that is the important part. The tools you have are fine.

Cheers
Andrew

PS The NGraver beading punches are very good and are harder and more designed for tougher work on gun metals etc. Here is a link that gets you to their web site http://www.ngraver.com/engrave.htm You could probabley fax them with an order if you wanted to.

[mckeenh]

Very nice work Roland, I never know when reading these post when I am going to run onto your work. I love it when I do.

Neil:yesnod:

[Big-Un]

I too had the beading punches made for jewelry and they are not good for steel. Mine broke after I stupidly tried them on steel. I then bought Ray Phillip's beading punches and they are just fine and do what I want them to....if my talent was better, the beading would be better!

Bill