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#1
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For those of you who like to make your own things here is a look at how to make a 4 inch grinding mandrel. First get, 4 inch bolt, 3, ½ inch washers, 3 inches of tubing-1/2 min. i.d. x 5/8 or more o.d. and ½ inch nut.
Everything has to be trued off the shaft of the bolt. First step is to turn the threaded end down to 3/8 x .650 long, file burr off threads. Second step true the inside face of the bolt remove as little as possible also make a 1/64 under cut where the bolt face meets the shaft Third step true both ends of tubing to 2 inches .375. When using thin grinding discs use a washer between bolt head and disc, one between disc and spacer and one between spacer and nut. Snug nut down do not over tighten. There will be a bit of run out because of the difference between holes and bolt sizes this should not effect grinding. Thick discs may also be used but use only one washer between nut and spacer. Approximate cost, bolt, Washer, spacer, nut at local hardware $3.oo, gas to and from $1.50, labor and trouble $7.oo per hr. x 2 = $14.oo, total aprox. $18.50. If your drill press is so worn out and wobbly it won’t even drill correctly this ain’t going to work, also don’t even think of buying a bolt with out making it true and sticking the stuff in your drill press. As a matter of fact don’t even fool around with it just buy one from Lindsay. Disclaimer, I do not recommend anyone doing the above, go see a professional! Carl Bleile Southwest,Ohio Last edited by carl bleile; 02-28-2009 at 03:38 PM. Reason: wrong number |
#2
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OK Carl. You are an inspiration. To say the least. I am going to make me one this week to go with the sharpener I made.
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#3
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I've got to make one of these!
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#4
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Hi Carl,
Very nice photos and thread. I few months ago I picked up (and trued) 3 arbors for Bryan Bridges. I use a Powerstrop arbor (1/2") that has a large washer type base than 2 larger washers and a large (flat nut). I got it from Woodcraft supply store. They sell the arbors alone for about $6.50. they are not as long as your from the drill chuck but the bottom is almost flat. ( I trued the bottom large washer type base on a lathe since Bryan wanted the lap to spin within .001). I didn't use the washers at all with the trued arbor since they were just pressed and cupped metal and would throw off the lap. So it was just the arbor,lap,nut and in to the drill press. The arbor has a 1/4 inch saft for mounting. Here is a link of what the power strop (with a leather strop mounted to the arbor i am talking about). http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=220 Note : the ad says a 1/4 inch arbor but the nut and threads are 1/2 inch perfect for the diamond laps. Maybe the leather strop could be used also to polish gravers Heels?? Looks like your set up works great too. ![]() AirAmp |
#5
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That leather wheel would be good to get the fine wire edge off tools after finial sharpening.
Carl Bleile southwest, Ohio |
#6
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What type of disks are you using? and where do you get them?
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#7
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I use the Lindsay discs http://www.handgravers.com/ the 100 grit is great as I can remove a lot of metal from a blank quickly where before with other equipement it was very slow going and could only get 260 max. grit. I usualy like 3 or more sizes of face on same shape cutters, different V angles, flats for sculpting and background removal, scrapers, gold inlay, bulino and banknote. Before I would dread making up tools it just took so long to grind them down, now if I need a new or special tool it only takes minutes and I'm back to work then I add that tool to my inventory.
Carl Bleile southwest, Ohio |
#8
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Carl,
Thank you for the info. Your use of the drill press is great, I think this will help be solve some of my grinding problems. Thanks again Sandy |
#9
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Good afternoon, I've been in this group since 2016, but I never had the opportunity to ask a question, I saw all the wonderful works and I learned little by little, can I ask what is the ceramic disc and how does it work? Thank you very much
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