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#1
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I like a dental rotary for background, inlays and undercutting rather than a flat graver. Combines several steps in one. With rotary you can remove background and stipple in the same step. After lowering an area I'm just bouncing on the bottom to resemble stippling. It will look matted after blackened. In the early 80s I was using a dental handpiece that was made by Buffalo Dental. I then used a NSK Presto. The one I use now is BenchJewel Rotary that is on the site: https://www.benchjewel.com/rotary.htm
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__________________________________ Steve Lindsay AirGraver.com EngravingArtist.com |
#2
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Hi
Thank for the clip Steve. SE ![]()
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Learn from those who know more than you do and teach those who know less than you do. - I.M. |
#3
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I use a single point 90 degree graver to remove the background,one slip with a rotary tool and you'll have a big problem. J.J.
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J.J. Roberts School of Artistic Engraving |
#4
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Hi JJ, Yes, you need to be careful or you can wipe something out quick.
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__________________________________ Steve Lindsay AirGraver.com EngravingArtist.com |
#5
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Steve,Thanks I'm not in a rush plus I don't trust myself with a rotary tool and will stay with single point graver.
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J.J. Roberts School of Artistic Engraving |
#6
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Hi Steve,
thank you for the video! What kind of tip hast the burr you are using? In the video it looks like a fine but round tip, is that right? I cant see sharp edges or teeth, how could this remove metal then? |
#7
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Steve,
I have the same rotary tool, i know some dentists here in my small Alaskan town and scored a bunch of carbide burs of various shapes and i am well pleased with the delicate control that it delivers... I am curious though ... what bur was that you were using? the convex tip shape seems handy. |
#8
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It is a worn carbide bur that I'm regrinding. Hold it against a diamond bench stone while it is spinning to grind to point. Then put your finger on the point so it can't spin and grind random facets on it. You'll see during the video I stop several times and ground another flat. Once at around frame 3:37 For that area it was a little small and not cutting very fast. I'm just reaching to the bench while holding it from spinning and grind another flat on it. It is on a 2000 diamond bench stone. You can adjust the size of it this way too. When too fat for the area grind it while it is spinning again. After placing a flat on see how it is cutting and if not well, put another on until it does and is the size needed.
Also at around 0:47 I reached over and ground another facet.
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__________________________________ Steve Lindsay AirGraver.com EngravingArtist.com |
#9
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Thank you for your answer, Steve!
So it is like a diamond shape then? I will try this. Do you have plans to add some further videos? It would be nice to see a inlay or sculpting video ![]() |
#10
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Hi Daniel, It is all shapes. In other words it is a little different shape each grind with random facets. If it doesn't cut put another on until it does.
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__________________________________ Steve Lindsay AirGraver.com EngravingArtist.com |
#11
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Any chance to have a close up pick or drawing of that point??
sorry for my bad english, an image would make things much clear thanks in advance
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www.martiquot.com |
#12
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MTC
As Steve stated really no particular point, however a shape like a common screw driver or a 4 corner point like the fixture Tim Wells sells work fine. You can find Tim’s fixture a the bottom of the template page,I think maybe Steve can give you a link ![]() |
#13
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Hi, The shape changes each time. I don't even look at it to see the current shape. From one random grind to the next time I grind another facet it is different.
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__________________________________ Steve Lindsay AirGraver.com EngravingArtist.com |
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