Sharpening for goldinlay point.

[rbaptiste]

I found the Lindsay's sharpening very easy and fast to use .
I think about the good way to make a point to do goldinlay with facility.
I study differents angles appropriated for airgraver and I create this point.

I think it will be good for all people to use it and I ask to Steve to create a template with this model of point for all engravers who want to do goldinlay.
Steve have tried this point and he confirm to me this template works great.
With pleasure I announce to you that this template coming very soon.
Thanks to Steve's collaboration.

[Steve Lindsay]

The new "Roland Baptiste" gold inlay prototype template for the sharpener works great. I gave the person that is cutting templates for us the go ahead to cut them. If all goes well they should be ready to ship by the end of the week. :whoo:

[vilts]

Steve, a small suggestion if I may. How about writing a little description about different points to your sharpeners web page?

When I look at those different points, I already start to wonder what's the big difference in those. Even more so might wonder the people who are first time on your page.

What's the difference in 'regular' Bulino and 'Coggan bulino'? What will be the difference in regular flat and Baptiste inlay points? When should I use which?

I know this is going to be too much to ask - but how about 3 minute video where each point is demoed and explained when/why to use? I could even do that myself if I had all those points and understanding on how to use them

[jlseymour]

Roland is the other side of the point flat or with a heel ???
Yes a little more info as Vilts suggested on the different points would be great...
There's so many variations on you're sharping system with the info scattered around on other threads it would be nice to have them on one thread with the difference on the gage length for 40-45-50 deg plus for the heel with the 1/2" dia hone on top of the block or set higher or lower than the block...
I went to Lowe's and bought a piece of marble 12X12 that is polished and it is so fine to slide back and forth and it works great...
Jerry

[Steve Lindsay]

Hi Vilts and Jerry, I've been meaning to do that. I'm just frankly short on time keeping up but this is something that would be super to have done. I wonder if people that do understand the various uses of these would want to help and write about them and I can jump in when needed. Then, later I can update the page or just provide a link to here in the engraving forum.

There is an additional template that was finished a month ago and that is ready to be sent out, but I haven't had a chance to add it to the site. It is a round bottom template. There is also another bulino template that will be ready by the end of the week together with Roland's template. It is bulino point that Dario Cortini from Bottega Incisioni Cesare Giovanelli in Italy uses. After trying a PalmControl (thank you Philip George!) Dario purchased a PalmControl and provided his sharpened bulino graver through Phillip so that templates can be made for it. Dario's bulino point is similar to Phil Coggan's but slightly different.

The 70 degree bulino template is one that Ray Cover recommended and I believe others are using a narrower graver like this for bulino too. The bulino I always used was just a 90 without a heel. Dario's and Phil's are similar but they grind them tapered on the bottom rather than the top so that the point digs in better than mine ever did.

Roland, would you have time to write a description of how you are using your gold inlay chisel? On Roland's template we are writing numbers on the edges of the template to help people determine an order to grind the facets.

[rbaptiste]

Yes of course Steve, I don't have the matérial to make a video but I explain with pictures, it isn't really difficult ;-)
This point is using to make the inlay with all material (gold, silver,...).
You can make relief and flat inlay, it is the point used in Europe for goldinlay, this tools don't cuting, it just push the steel.
The difference with the undercuting used more in Oestrich and it cuting in your line.
With undercuting, I feel is more difficult to use because you musn't touch the other edge of your line.
With my point, I study the good angle to have easy to progress into the line and for don't touch the other edge when you advance.
This point it is a symetrical point.
You can see here the step to sharp it with the template and how use it.
Into the Pauls contest submission http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=2234 Paul explain the technic to goldinlay ;-) and it is not necessary to explain again ;-) because his tutorial is very good. Thanks Paul.

Steve write on the template the number of the step to have the good way to well sharp. You must just following the number ;-) it will be easier.


Of course, you must do different size of tools: big to the straight line, medium for scroll and little for the corner or little turning ;-)
Don't hésitate if you have more question.

[Steve Lindsay]

Thanks Roland, These pictures are helpful to see.

[SEngraver]

Bonjorno RolandBaptiste
At what angle is inlay point used to make the undercut in the pocket for the inlay?
And I see from the picture it has a heel,right?.As in picture numero 6 does one just make the cut and set in the Inlay?
Cheers
Mohd

[rbaptiste]

hi, you can see the angle to use in the seconde picture of number 6 it is +- 35-40 degree
For made the "undercut" you just put the point into your line at 35-40 degree and incline it a little on the left or right to advance. If you incline more you advance fast.
You must do that in each edge of your line.

[Steve Lindsay]

Roland's inlay templates are cut out and ready to go.

[rbaptiste]

Nice part Steve, I am enjoy to use it ;-)

[Steve Lindsay]

Good, thanks Roland.
Here is a drawing with lables to the facets that correlate with the lables on the templates.

[RhoTu]

Just bought the Baptiste template and have a couple of questions for those that have used it. Noob to inlaying so basic questions.
I have ground the first relief angles(1)) down to .030, should I go further before switching to grind the cutting angle(4)?
What width do you find most useful for the side to side angles(2)? I assume that you have more than one graver of this grind but thought I would ask.
TIA
RT

[Steve Lindsay]

Hi RT, It is easiest to just take #1 grinds all the way to pretty much a knife edge. Then put #4 on them. Yes, what you say for #2. You could make several sizes that way so that they relative to what fits and works well in the size of inlays your'e doing.