Inket Printer Transfers or What Works & What Don't

[Tim Wells]

I'm making a sticky so that those of us with first hand knowledge with various printers, inks, and transparency films can post what factually works and what doesn't.

This isn't the place to ask questions but just to input proven experience so that future searchers can look in one place rather than search the endless thread chains on this subject for the answers. When anyone finds a printer, ink, or film that works simply post it here.

Over time we will have a good one stop shopping place for injet only details.

[MikeDubber]

Tim:

This is to note that I have good transfer results with my DELL Photo 924 printer using 3M CG3480 Film for Ink Jet Jet Printers (45 sheets for 19.95 at Office Depot). I also make my own transfer solution by mixing 1 part Damar Varnish with 9 parts Denatured Alcohol - and applying that solution to the subject (firearm or other metal surface) with a Q-Tip appicator. The solution is allowed to flash dry, the film/image is positioned, and then burnished to transfer the ink image.


This 3M Film also works with my HP Photosmart. The nature of this kind of transparency film is that one side has a grainy texture - that's what dries the ink on the plastic transparency surface. So, it is necessary to print in the "Mirror Image" feature, making sure the printer is placing ink on the grainy side of the film.

[Roger B2]

Well, here is a start. I don't don't take any credit or blame for these combinations as they are reproduced as found elsewhere. I'll only include those where Epson transparencies are not used as the media and where a blank line exists it is because the information was not provided.

1) Printer
2) Ink
3) Media
4) Transfer solution
5) Notes
6) Donor

1) HP Photosmart C3130
2) Vivera #92
3) Photoworks
4)
5)
6) Fancygun

1) HP F380
2) #21 Black
3) 3M transparencies PP2500
4)
5) Set to greyscale. Let ink dry at least 1/2 hour
6) Maplesm

1) HP 5440
2) #92 Black
3) Parchment or 3M Laser transparencies
4)
5)
6) Monk

1) HP Officejet 6213
2) HP #131
3) Mylar or "Highland" transparencies
4)
5) Spray sheet with dry type of deodorant on coarse side of trans.
Prepare metal with chinese white or white Sharpie
6) Van Knife

1) HP 1400 series
2) HP #27 Black
3) Mylar or "Highland" transparencies
4)
5) As above
6) Van Knife

1) Epson CX4900
2) Epson #73 Black
3) Nobo transparencies
4) Damar diluted with lighter fluid (proportions not specific but can be
around 50/50. Wait to dry - about 3 minutes.
5) Make sure metal is cleaned with acetone
6) Roger B

There other printer/ink combinations but it seems rather pointless posting them as they work with Epson transparencies.

All the best,
Roger

[DaveP]

Hi Tim,
I am finally having success with Tom White's transfer solution, my Canon Mutilpass MP730 printer with Canon inks, and either 3M-CG3460 or Innovera IVR-65130 transparencies. Both transparency brands are textured. The important thing I learned was that the environmental conditions during drying of Tom's solution were critical. My shop temperature is rarely above 62 degrees and I have wood heat, which can create very dry conditions. I found that I had to blow softly but continuously on the solution to make sure it dried with an opaque grey surface. If it did not turn grey, the transfer failed. Once prepared correctly, the transfer worked very well, even to the point where I can see the grain of the textured transparency. I still find that I have to lightly coat the transferred image with a very light spray (I use Krylon Matt Finish 1311) to prevent it from rubbing off.

dave

[dgibbens]

First I am just a newbie but this is what I use:

Printer: Brother HL-2170W

Transfer Medium: Reynolds parchment paper

Transfer Fixative: Blair Spray Damar Varnish

Once I have the design in the computer like I like it and the right size I print it on normal printing paper. Then I cut a piece of parchment paper with a good margin around the design. I then tape the parchment paper over the design of the previously printed paper. I only tape the entire leading edge. (Sometimes it would jam if i tape the opposite edge.)

Note: On my printer it doesn’t mater what side of the parchment paper I print to, some other printers I tried it would only print good on the rougher side of the parchment paper

Next I prepare the metal by cleaning it with alcohol. Then I spray a real light coat of Blair Spray Damar Varnish and let it set for about 30 sec. Then put the piece of parchment paper printed side down and rub with burnisher. I found it helps to tape an edge so you can pull up the paper and see what areas might still need rubbing.

After the transfer is complete I put another light coat of Blair Spray Damar Varnish over it and let is set for 20 min.

This system has worked really well for me.
I can post pictures of the steps if it will help someone.

[DaveP]

Hi Tom,
I am now using your solution with 3-M transparencies and a Canon printer with success. My results are not as dark as yours but they are detailed and more than adequate for the job. As you noted, the inks are different and that is likely the reason for the lighter transfer. Regardless, I can easily see what I need. What I found with experimentation was that I had to blow gently on your solution while drying for quite a long time to insure the surface became translucent grey. If that did not happen the transfer would fail miserably. However, if it dries grey, my transfers have been 100% successful with the Canon. The printer uses BCI-3e Canon ink and the printer is set on greyscale printing. The transparencies are 3-M CG3460 or Innovera IVR-65130. Both have a textured printing side and the grain pattern actually transfers a little to the metal. Anyway, I have found a workable method using your solution with a Canon printer.

dave

[Tom White]

Something has come to my attention that I took for granted and have never really covered well and that is surface prep. for application of transfer media.

All of the surfaces we work on have been exposed to some waxes or oils be it from our hands or polishing compounds like rouge it is bound in wax and most all polishing compounds are bound in some type of oil or wax.
Gun parts and a lot of the other things we cut are exposed to oils in manufacture and for surface protection.

The best cleaner you can use is IPA it is safe and works well that is why it is the choice of the electronics industry. You need to get the highest percentage of isopropyl alohol you can find most good drug stores will have at least 95%.

Now what you clean with is also important and what you think is a good applicator may not be, Paper towels are oily and do not work well at all, facial tissues are sometimes oiled or scented and not too good either. What you need is toilet paper plain white unscented you want to scrub and clean each surface at least 2 times and use a new piece of TP each time. Then do not touch the surface apply the solution of your choice if you use Transfer Magic use a cotton swab and use a new one each time.

For those of you who have had a hard time transferring to polished surfaces an unclean surface is most likely the problem. You need a clean surface for any transfer media to have enough surface tension to stay during the burnishing process.

Remember IPA and clean clean clean before you apply any transfer media and you will have much better success.

Tom White
Transfer Magic

[Ken Hurst]

Tom is dead on correct re. cleaning the piece well before applying solution ! I tried to get a high concentrate of IPA but not finding any in this small town, I got a pint of Everclear grain alcohol from our ABC store. Following Tom's instruction re. cleanlyness, I got the best transfers I've ever got. Way to go Mr. Tom ---- you really walked me thru what I was doing wrong. Ken

[Tim Wells]

"I got a pint of Everclear grain alcohol from our ABC store. Following Tom's instruction re. cleanlyness, I got the best transfers I've ever got. "

...and just think of all the "medicinal" and not so medicinal uses for that stuff like; soaking a sore ankle... from the inside out, cleaning rosin off your fiddle strings (saw Stuart Duncan do this once), rubbin' your horse's bowed tendons...

[DaveP]

Now Ken,
Are you sure the Everclear is getting on the metal rather than into something else (if you know what I mean) that helps make the transfers look really good. In fact, probably makes anything look really good. Just kidding Ken. Glad to hear the method is working.

dave

[WVEngraver]

I've updated my results in the "experimental" thread.

I also noted that HP Vivera inks will transfer with either composite black in addition to black only.

Some older HP, ink based, printers only accept a standard black ink cartridge like the #45, however the color cartridges are available with the Vivera formulation. This means you don't have to run out and buy a new printer specifically for transferring. Composite prints are significantly lighter but are workable.

I was able to get an acceptable transfer using my HP Photosmart P1000 printing composite black (color mix).

An "available now" printer that works excellent is the HP 5580 All-in-one. $139 bucks at Staples. I bought a #75XL black cartridge for it to be on the safe side because it is clearly labeled "Vivera" ink on the package. The XL simply refers to "Xtra Large".

This is all using Tom White's Transfer Magic and will also work with the Damar varnish mix as Mike Dubber states above.

-----

From a business point of view ... I chose an HP all-in-one with cartridges that I knew would work. This printer also consolidates space on my bench by replacing both my older scanner and older printer. The fact that it performs excellent as a business solution AND for transferring detailed images makes it a great investment for $139 bucks.

From an engraving point of view ... Having two methods of transferring is a good idea. The laser/acetone or parchment methods for transferring less detailed stuff (which is most of the time) and the transparency method when accuracy in image placement and resolution is imperative.

For informational purposes .... I don't know who is going to sort this out (Tim?). Anyone posting their results should include a photo and state the make, model and cartridges of their printer. Also state whether or not the printer is discontinued or currently available.

On a side note .... Mylar does not work. I let the ink dry for about 15 minutes and it still smudged.

That's it. Have a nice day.

p.s. .... there's just something "wrong" about buying shine at a gubbermint run store.

[cdrive2002]

Originally Posted by MikeDubber

Tim:

This is to note that I have good transfer results with my DELL Photo 924 printer using 3M CG3480 Film for Ink Jet Jet Printers (45 sheets for 19.95 at Office Depot). I also make my own transfer solution by mixing 1 part Damar Varnish with 9 parts Denatured Alcohol - and applying that solution to the subject (firearm or other metal surface) with a Q-Tip appicator. The solution is allowed to flash dry, the film/image is positioned, and then burnished to transfer the ink image.


This 3M Film also works with my HP Photosmart. The nature of this kind of transparency film is that one side has a grainy texture - that's what dries the ink on the plastic transparency surface. So, it is necessary to print in the "Mirror Image" feature, making sure the printer is placing ink on the grainy side of the film.

I really like the idea of this method since I am cleaning up my designs in Photoshop. I tried it several times on a steel plate that I had cleaned well. I could see the design when I turned it toward the light in certain directions but couldn't see it otherwise. Any ideas what I did wrong. My instructor said that it may have been that I should have roughed up the surface lightly before trying the transfer since the plate had a shiny surface. I am using an HP Photosmart D7160 printer that uses Vivera cartridges.