Seeking advice on choosing an engraving system for stone setting work

[Chathu]

Hi Everyone,

I'm a jeweler, mostly doing stone setting in my day to day work. I have never used or even seen a power assisted engraver. I need to buy an engraving system that could help me in my stone setting work and also to start engraving.

I’ve gone through many of the threads and I found this forum has numerous resource personals under one roof and I hope you will share your hard learnt wisdom with me.

At the moment my concerns is that I need to start with engraving involved in micropaving stone settings. If you want to know more of what I mean, please take a look at this video (Time from 01:40 - 04:40)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GUY...a54JK_lb4xObMl

See how the tip cuts through the metal ? That is what I want to do (and some engravings in the future as well). I know that is more of "graving" rather than engraving, but if I buy an engraving system I could do both stone settings and engraving, right ?

Needn't to say I'm on a tight budget, and I was thinking about the Lindsay Artisan AirGraver with a foot control. There are not much videos describing how the Lindsay system works and I found it hard to find if Id be needing anything more to start engraving and stone setting apart from the Artisan hand piece and foot control.

What sort of advantages will I have if I choose Lindsay in stone setting work ?

Do I need the palm control for stone setting ? Or will the Artisan could do with a foot control could handle all the stone setting work? What is the difference of Classic airgraver and Artisan airgraver when it comes to stone setting ? Will I have added advantage if I choose the Classic hand piece if my main concern is stone setting work? Is it worth spending the extra buck if my main concern is stone setting work ?

I've seen there is a tungston dead blow piston but I dont know how it will fit my hand piece or does it come with a hand piece of its own.

I would really appreciate it if you guys could help me sharing your experience. Especially stone setting work assisted by an Lindsay engraver.

Power assisted engravers are hard to find in Sri Lanka (where I'm from) and therefore trying out and getting hands on experience before buying is not possible in the country. So I will have to buy this entirely based on the experience shared generously by you all.

Thanks in advance

Cheers.

Chathu

[Steve Lindsay]

Hi Chathu,

The tungsten piston is avaialbe for both the Artisan and Classic. The foot control Classic can later be updated to PalmControl.

The difference between the Classic and Artisan is the stroke collar. The stroke collar on the Classic provides the power of several sized hand pieces in one. It is similar to setting the back swing of a hammer hitting a punch.
It can be set at a short back swing or longer one. The PSI flow through the foot pedal or PalmControl controls the power and speed within a given stroke length setting. It is similar to gears in a car. Set it in first gear (short stroke) and you have good low end, delicate control. Or set it in fifth gear and you can cut much deeper than in first gear. It can still cut delicate lines in fifth gear but it is easier to cut delicate lines in first gear. Continuing this analogy of gears, the Artisan is fixed in 3rd gear.

Here are a couple of previous threads
http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=10985
http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=1375

[Chathu]

Originally Posted by Steve Lindsay

Hi Chathu,

The tungsten piston is avaialbe for both the Artisan and Classic. The foot control Classic can later be updated to PalmControl.

The difference between the Classic and Artisan is the stroke collar. The stroke collar on the Classic provides the power of several sized hand pieces in one. It is similar to setting the back swing of a hammer hitting a punch.
It can be set at a short back swing or longer one. The PSI flow through the foot pedal or PalmControl controls the power and speed within a given stroke length setting. It is similar to gears in a car. Set it in first gear (short stroke) and you have good low end, delicate control. Or set it in fifth gear and you can cut much deeper than in first gear. It can still cut delicate lines in fifth gear but it is easier to cut delicate lines in first gear. Continuing this analogy of gears, the Artisan is fixed in 3rd gear.

Here are a couple of previous threads
http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=10985
http://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=1375

Hi Steve,

Thank you for the details.

So can I order the regular piston and tungston piston separately and use it in a single Artisan hand piece, right ? the piston goes in the hand piece and I can change the piston as and when my requirments, right ? I'm sorry if I'm asking the same questions over and over again. But I cant help it. I have never seen one for real and this is kind a "leap of faith".

And, a classic hand piece give me added advantage in stone setting, right ?

[antsaldana]

Hi chathu, i am also a jeweler\setter, i would suggest the classic with foot control, i got mine earlier this year and i couldn't imagine working without it! the tungsten piston is not necessary for setting if your only working with gold, silver or platinum, although if your planning to try your hand on some steel, your gonna want one. Hope this helps! Anthony

[Chathu]

Originally Posted by antsaldana

Hi chathu, i am also a jeweler\setter, i would suggest the classic with foot control, i got mine earlier this year and i couldn't imagine working without it! the tungsten piston is not necessary for setting if your only working with gold, silver or platinum, although if your planning to try your hand on some steel, your gonna want one. Hope this helps! Anthony

Hi Anthony,

Thank you very much for sharing your experience. This is very helpful.

I'm working in Gold, Silver and Platinum only as well. I guess the Tungston piston is included in the Classic system and I dont know if I can get it without the Tungston piston.

Thanks again.

Chathu

[Steve Lindsay]

Hi Chathu, You can get the Classic with just the stainless piston. I would recommend having the tungsten piston though too.

[Chathu]

Originally Posted by Steve Lindsay

Hi Chathu, You can get the Classic with just the stainless piston. I would recommend having the tungsten piston though too.

Steve,
Yes, tungsten piston may come in handy.
Do you ship via EMS, by the way ?

[Steve Lindsay]

We are using FedEx. To figure shipping cost click on the "add to cart" buttons on the website and then in the checkout select your country and it will figure shipping automatically. http://www.airgraver.com/Hand_Engrav...s_Overview.htm Overseas orders for the AirGravers are shipped by FedEx International. It is usually a 2 to 4 day service. Currently PalmControls are shipping in 5 to 10 working days from receiving payment and foot controlled AirGravers are shipping in 3 to 5 working days from receiving payment.

[Chathu]

OK Steve, thanks.

[Steve Lindsay]

You're welcome, Chathu. Another difference of the Artisan and Classic is that the Classic doesn't need collets.

The holder in the Classic AirGraver nose is a .133" diameter hole. This
is the size of a 3/32" square measured across the corners. Therefore
3/32" square gravers work as will any shank you can fit into a .133"
(3.38mm) diameter hole. If the tang of the gravers you are using are
larger than this you will need to grind the shanks to fit. Within the
front end of the tool hole is an oring that is used with the rapid
change that works best with the 3/32" square.

Below are five methods in the manual on page 5 about changing gravers in
the Classic. If switching a lot, I use method #1 (no collects needed) or
method 2 is also quick. For work on the knives I didn't change gravers
very often and so I would use method 3.

1: Slip a graver in and out of the tool hole. Gravers are held from
rotating or falling out of the tool hole because of the oring, yet they
may be pulled out or pushed in easily. This works best with 3/32" square
shank gravers. To prepare the tool, insert a 3/32" square graver and
leave the setscrew slightly backed off from the surface of the graver.
The screw acts as an index in this way and the friction of the O-ring in
the front of the tool hole prevents the graver from falling out. Once
the setscrew is set, it does not need to be adjusted to change gravers.

2. Utilizes a thumb screw for a more secure grip. This will work with
any shank graver (round or square) under .133" in size.

Remove the setscrew and use the knurled thumbscrew in its place. The
graver can be tightened down for a more secure grip than #1.

3. The third way to use the tool holder is with a set screw and wrench.
This will provide the most secure hold. It will work with any shank
graver (round or square) under .133" in size.

4. The fourth method is to remove the setscrew or thumb screw from the
AirGraver's nose completely, and just slip the 3/32" square graver
shanks in/out. It is similar to #1", but with the set screw completely
removed. The rubber o-ring is then all that is used to hold the graver
in the tool hole.

5. Last method is using the quick change extensions for the Classic.
They provide extra length for large hands or if wanting to get more use
from a short graver.

[Chathu]

Thanks again Steve,

Nice information you shared there.

It seems i will be buying the Classic airgraver. If not, the Artisan airgraver.

Now Ill have to find that extra buck.

Will see.

[Soco]

Hi Chathu.
Jeweler/Setter/ever learning to make fancy scratch marks. I would strongly recommend the Classic for jewelry/setting. I use the adjustment a Lot for various reasons, cutting our grains, millgrain, beading tools, texturing, raising beads, hammering, engraving outlines, fine shading to name a few reasons.
My classic did not come with the tungsten piston, and lately I wish it did for some purposes.

[Dave London]

MTC, I only engrave, however the shipping for any other system would cost more. control boxes etc.

[Chathu]

Originally Posted by Soco

Hi Chathu.
Jeweler/Setter/ever learning to make fancy scratch marks. I would strongly recommend the Classic for jewelry/setting. I use the adjustment a Lot for various reasons, cutting our grains, millgrain, beading tools, texturing, raising beads, hammering, engraving outlines, fine shading to name a few reasons.
My classic did not come with the tungsten piston, and lately I wish it did for some purposes.

Hi Soco,
Thank you for sharing your experience with me. Classic seems to be the one for my job. I think the tungsten piston is included in the bundle now. It must be essential thing to have, i guess.

Cheers

[Chathu]

Originally Posted by Dave London

MTC, I only engrave, however the shipping for any other system would cost more. control boxes etc.

Hi Dave,
Yes, the shipping costs are crazy. Even the Lindsay systen carries a 150U$ to Sri Lanka via FedEx. Im thinking if I could get it to one of my friends in US and then delivered to me via EMS, which is cheaper.