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#51
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Thank-you SE and Dan.
Steve achieved a new height of excellence with this rifle. Getting the stainless barrel to take the color took him a few days. There will be more photos to follow as soon as we can get a warmer day. Take care, Chris |
#52
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Beautiful execution and the combination of excellent pictures and explanation combine for a Great tutorial. Thank you for taking the time and sharing it here.
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#53
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That rifle should do the job of getting Mr. Cale's acceptance to the Guild. Your conservative approach and the reason why is very gracious of you, for we all know that you are extremely capapable of more extravagant embellishment!
A beautiful job, Chris. ![]() Thank you for sharing. Gail
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festina lente make haste slowly A. Caesar |
#54
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Hi CJ and Gail, thank-you for the kind words.
There's another rifle on the rack that Steve is getting into now. There's be more engraving and I'll try to post it when it is complete. Chris |
#55
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#56
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Chris, thanks a bunch for this great tutorial. I have been fighting gold inlay work and it has been driving me crazy.
One question, how do you get a really sharp point at the end of a line? Anyway thanks again what a great help! |
#57
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Hi Paul .... glad you enjoyed it!! The m/c parts were finished some time ago as this thread was started in September. I guarantee that there will be more very soon.
Hi Tim, hope all is well. The key to this is in the shape of the undercutting tool. I use a square graver to taper the ends of the inlay channel trying to get as deep as I can at the end without widening the cut. All it takes is enough steel on the sides to make a small undercut that will hold the gold. For these small inlays, the tip of the undercutting tool was tapered to less than 0.5mm wide. Chris |
#58
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That's beautiful work Chris, it really sets off the finished rifle. Thanks for showing us.
Colin
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Stolzer & Son's Gunsmithing |
#59
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Nice job, thanks another time for posting! Especially thanks for the final pictures, wouldn't have found the tutorial otherwise :-)
Hanne |
#60
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Thanks again Chris. In cutting the v channel for inlaying a wire vine or something similar. do you leave the channel in a V shape and if so wher do you punch in the undercut? In your drawing the channel is flat like it was cut with a flat. How do you undercut just a V shaped channel? Thanks in advance.
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#61
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Correct Tim. When the channel gets real small, just leave it as a "V" cut and use the undercut tool to make a small indentation on each side at the bottom. I haven't had to use anything narrower than a square graver.
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#62
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Chris, I tried this last night with copper and it worked great!! Thanks so much for sharing this info. Now i am not afraid to try more difficult gold shapes. Thanks again.
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#63
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Hi Chris!
Very beautiful and refined work! The most important thing is very professionally made pictures! Best shows process steps! I'm just beginning to engage in engraving and I am very interested to see not only the excellent work done but also on how she does! Good luck BES |
#64
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Chris,
I sure am getting great value from your tutorial, and the interacting postings. Excellent clarity on the photos! best Rod |
#65
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Hi Rod, I'm very pleased that you have found this informative. There are so many different ways to accomplish things and I have to give credit to those who have passed on the techniques to which I am able to refine (a little) through trial and error. I have been out of town and had the pleasure of enjoying a glass of 21 year Glenlivet Archive .... outstanding!! One day I hope to share one with you.
Hi BES, the possibilities are endless and maybe soon I will show some refinements to this which will produce some ultra fine inlays. |
#66
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Hey Chris,
Somehow I slipped on this thread, That is splended and clean script inlay very nice post thanks and keep going. Regards "VAN" |
#67
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Chris: Great job Pard. I love it.
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All you got's your name, Boys. |
#68
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I tip me at to ya Criss
![]() Keep up the good work! Michael |
#69
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Thank-you Michael. You're in a location I wish I were in right now ... have a few those incredible Jamaican patties and something fruity with dark rum for me!!
Here's a few more ... a little something in the vise now. Wire has been drawn down to .23mm. The letters in "West Virginia" are about 1.5mm in height. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() All the best, Chris |
#70
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Wow Chris 1,5 mm is very small lettering inlay! thank you for share ever is acpleasure see yours works my friend!
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www.mrthehobonickels.com |
#71
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Hi Chris,
1.5mm is tiny but the inlay letters look fab. Thank you for the in progress photographs Chris. SE ![]()
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Learn from those who know more than you do and teach those who know less than you do. - I.M. |
#72
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I had to dig out a ruler to see how big 1.5mm is, then had to find glasses to read the scale wow ! Great job Chris.
Eric |
#73
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Hi Chris, which is the stones that You Use from Gesswein, I want to order some, But I see they have "Diemaker" ones grey color, and then "Moldmaker" that appears white, Which ones do You Suggest, as it looks You Have experiance with them, and Ordering from Here, Africa, I must get the right thing first time.!! Too Much Money down the drain over the years, with getting the wrong stuff.
Amazing Inlay,!! U Da Man.!!
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ChrisBooysen www.cbknives.com "If you are patient in one Moment of Anger, You will Escape a hundred Days of Sorrow." |
#74
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Thank-you guys ... it was a fun challenge. The tough part isn't the inlay itself, it's relieving between the letters and a 70 degree V graver fit nicely. It is also a good idea to wait a few hours after the morning coffee and those 5 hour energy drinks are definitely out of the question.
![]() Chris, the Moldmaker stones work well on curved or shaped surfaces and softer metals. I find the Moldmaker Plus and anything that rapidly breaks down to be too soft and tends to scallop the gold like paper does. The stone I use most is the 600 grit, white oil treated ... Gesswien part number 435-5604. They've also added 800 and 1200 grit which are on my purchase list. A very light oil like honing oil is all you need ... kerosene if you don't mind the smell. I would buy a variety of the oil treated grits in the 1/2" width and grab a few of the Moldmaker in 600 grit and up. |
#75
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![]() ![]() Last edited by redgreen; 10-25-2012 at 08:04 AM. Reason: off topic |
#76
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Chris Thankx a Stack. I will Order Today, I have been using fine Jeweler files and sand paper but it needs a lot of sanding to get rid of scoure marks.
Just Please Let Your Work Keep Coming with these great Demos that You Are Posting, So Much to learn. Thank You.
__________________
ChrisBooysen www.cbknives.com "If you are patient in one Moment of Anger, You will Escape a hundred Days of Sorrow." |
#77
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Very nice work. I especially like the tip of rolling the gold wire finer between two steel plates. I haven't seen that one before, It reminds me of how a piece of clay wire can be rolled finer under the hands.
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#78
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Great tutorial, thanks for sharing
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Vlad, LVVP, Canada, ON, Maple |
#79
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Thanks for sharing
Looks Great |
#80
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What gorgeous work and such a descriptive and detailed explanation of the process. Great tutorial.
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#81
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I'm still new to the Engraving club, I'm a bit older than the average new guy ,"59" ,a widowed disabled retiree.I used to be a part time Tattoo Artist . I just pretty much finished setting up my new shop and saw this this morning, It just gives me more drive to get started seeing what is possible for me in the future.It's contributions like yours that help people like me in this field, A very heart felt thanks and Happy Holidays to you , Ed Grabow Shirley Long Island
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