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#1
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![]() ![]() Several members in this forum asked me about my method of incrustation "contour" of metal in wood. I apologize for the huge delay The common assumption is that the metal inlaid in wood is easier than metal inlaid in metal, perhaps judging is a more difficult processing of the metal as a whole. In reality, it does not. The problem is the inhomogeneity of the materials (base and inlay). They respond quite differently to changes in temperature, humidity, atmospheric pressure, and others. In the inlay type "metal to metal" once healthy are busy, no power to escape inlay. To obtain stable during inlay "metal in wood" , must fulfill all along inlaid quality. How to make inlay? In the animated schema I reflect the main stages: ![]() 1. Carve a V shaped channel * 2. Tamped in it a metal band (I use 1.00-1.2 X 0.25-0.3 , mm). Personally I glue it , but this is not necessarily ** 3. Smooths above __________________________ * the channel must be such that the metal must to be knock hard in late ** quality made inlay no needs of glue, the glue will not keep bad made inlay I think the pictures will show more. Here in steps, how to put inlay. For example - part of the spiral , shown by the arrow. In the case inlay on the handle of a knife. Inlaid is silver on walnut: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#2
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Wow Evgeni, that's a nice tutorial of something I alway was curious about how it is done, thank you very much for sharing this with us !!!
Willem |
#3
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Great tutotial Evgeni,i was curious too in how you make this beautyfull inlays and today i have learn a little more,thank you for your kindness you are a great guy and a great artist!
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www.mrthehobonickels.com |
#4
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Evgeni, thanks very much for sharing your knowledge. Inlays on wood are a pretty thing, it is amazing how so different materials from nature mix together wonderfuly.
I have also found this document on internet Last edited by macsalvi; 07-21-2012 at 05:58 AM. Reason: New document added. |
#5
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Do you cut your lines with a straight knife, or parting?
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#6
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Hi,
Thank you very much Evgeni for the tutorial in pictures. ![]() It is Much Appreciated SE ![]()
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Learn from those who know more than you do and teach those who know less than you do. - I.M. |
#7
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Thank You All
![]() If You question is about the working knife : ![]() |
#8
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I watched your animation again. The way the wood burr is illustrated in the first step, it looks like a single line cut with a parting knife. In other words, the wood is cut, but no wood is removed... Would that be a correct charicterization?
It is a very nice process. Thank you |
#9
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Evgeni, Thanks for sharing your techniques, really interesting and great work! Glenn C.
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#10
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Thanks again
Quote:
When cut hard trees (like African) or bone, have removal a little material of base. |
#11
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Thank you
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#12
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Very useful tutorial and again proves that skill is in the artist's hand and not his tools.Performant tools can work to ease.Thanks for sharing
__________________
Ilie |
#13
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Hello Evgeni, as always, show a good lesson I hope for more
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#14
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demo if I may be so informal. Do you use fine silver that is very soft and I thick hard to drive into the wood or sterling silver or nickle silver ? Also I was woundering if a deep scratch cut into the metal along its length with an a graver or knife would add to its holding power after the wood expands against it. Did I make myself clear? Thanks for the tips.....chickenscratcher
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#15
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Could you tell me where to get small metal strips like that? I would love to try it! Thanks
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#16
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I used to carry it in .008 brass or german silver, but don't have a clue if I sold it all or still have some left Dave
__________________
Dave Kanger Some men are wise, some are other wise. |
#17
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![]() Quote:
__________________
Dave Kanger Some men are wise, some are other wise. |
#18
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Hi,
Thank you Evgeni for posting those images. Wonderful work!! As Dave Kanger said there are many ways to skin the same cat. I usually use fine silver that is dead soft. However, I used brass wire on the early 17th century gun I built shown below. It worked well but is a bit springy compared with fine silver. Dave's comments largely describe the methods I use. I incise the lines with small wood chisels and gouges, but I also use tiny cutters made from hacksaw blades. These are very small (<2mm) and when the edge is viewed straight on, the cross section is slightly oval shaped. In other words, the ends are rounded a little. That allows me to punch in a tiny curve without the chisel leaving a jagged line. dave ![]() ![]() |
#19
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THAT is way cool and well worth waiting for. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
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#20
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#21
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Great tutorial! Merci!
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#22
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Nice tutorial! Thanks for posting this.
I understand the compression concept and how it would work on softer hardwoods like walnut. How would you handle this in some of the harder tropical woods like ebony, zircote, or even desert ironwood? In woods that are very difficult to "compress" do you actually need to "carve" a channel and glue the wire in? Ray |
#23
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Ray,
As I mentioned in an earlier post, we use flat ribbon wire. For those super hard woods, I suspect you would switch to round wire and inlay it as you would if doing it in metal. I think it would be really tough to use ribbon wire in a cut channel without some gaposis along the edges.
__________________
Dave Kanger Some men are wise, some are other wise. |
#24
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Hello all
I'm glad that this topic is discussed . Quote:
Quote:
Must to make so , that the channel is such , that the metal knock not destroy the tree I just cut out little material at the top of the base ![]() Regards edit: Thank You DKanger and DaveP for Your advices ![]() In realy like everything else, there are many ways to accomplish the same thing |
#25
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Ray: "How would you handle this in some of the harder tropical woods like ebony, zircote, or even desert ironwood? In woods that are very difficult to "compress" do you actually need to "carve" a channel and glue the wire in?"
Ray, You mean like this, for example? Ebony and silver flute after an original from 1720. I developed the technique seventeen years ago, and made this ebony flute, which is now played by the Professor of Flute, Amsterdam Conservatory, Netherland. Rod |
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