Hobo Nickel - First Time - advice

[Seth2319]

I've been recently inspired by many of you hobo nickel carvers out there to get into attempting some nickels of my own. This is really my first time using a flat point to erase certain areas, and a sculpting punch to smooth them out (which gave me the most trouble). When I was attempting to smooth out certain areas to make them look more uniform and natural, I used a sculpting punch that I made using a "mrthe" template, which turned out nice. The problem came in when I started to try and use it, I cant fit the airgraver under my microscope when it's completely perpendicular to the piece I'm working on. So my attempts were simply using my naked eye, which worked ok. Also, it seems that keeping the sculpting punch exactly perpendicular is vital in keeping a smooth uniform surface. Tilting the tool just off a bit makes small stippling-like marks. If anyone could share some input or wisdom when it comes to this part of the process, that would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

The first picture is of the completed coins, the second is when they were almost finished.

[mrthe]

Nice work! about your problem with the punch,how do you hold your nickel under the scope? do you use a ball? do you have a barlow lens? have you try to tilt the vise at 45 and use the punch in this way?

[Seth2319]

Thank you! I was really hoping you would chime in, and it only took 5 minutes haha. I don't use a ball right now, it's a fixed clamp on a rotating table, and i just hot-glue the coin to a practice plate. I didn't think to tilt the actual coin itself, I'll try that next time I make it to the work bench, that might just work. Also, i'm not using a barlow lens right now. Would a barlow lens give me more room in between the coin and the microscope?

[mrthe]

Yes ,the barlow lens give you the double working distance

[Seth2319]

Tilting the actual practice plate I have the coin glued to 45 degrees works great, thanks for the tip!